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施华洛世奇水晶精品部中国区董事总经理孙珏——125年闪...

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1895年诞生于奥地利的施华洛世奇,以其精湛的仿水晶切割技术与璀璨的仿水晶产品闻名于世。从配饰、首饰到家居摆件,产品线延伸到了每一个能被仿水晶装饰的角落。
施华洛世奇进入中国数十载,一直深受消费者喜爱。伴随着国内消费市场的蓬勃与中产阶级的崛起,中国市场表现一路走高,2016年正式超越北美市场,成为其全球最大的市场。
延续精湛工艺和卓越品质,施华洛世奇不断顺应、跟进、引领中国时尚趋势,创新产品、融合渠道,发力社交营销,一系列焕新策略正重塑这个百年品牌的供应链与价值链。今年年底,施华洛世奇即将迎来125周年诞辰之际,品牌在北京及上海揭幕了第四代新概念门店。
施华洛世奇水晶精品部中国区董事总经理孙珏女士告诉《21CBR》记者,中国市场销售连续多年保持两位数增长,已然成为全球业绩增长的重要引擎。
施华洛世奇在中国采取了“在中国,为中国”策略,保持国际化的品牌核心理念,又积极顺应中国市场的发展,满足中国消费者的需求,同时又创造潮流。
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施华洛世奇水晶精品部中国区董事总经理 孙珏女士
21CBR:施华洛世奇近年来爆款频出,活力依旧,品牌125年始终保持生命力的关键是什么?
孙珏:品牌始终保持旺盛生命力的首要元素是品牌历史和深厚的文化底蕴。施华洛世奇作为一家奥地利家族企业,创新的内涵和精神始终引领着我们的发展。在品牌DNA里,最关键的莫过于保留自身文化底蕴,不断创新求变,不断满足和适应市场和消费者的整体发展需求。
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施华洛世奇2019 ICONIC SWAN中国专属系列
施华洛世奇身处时尚领域,很难用单一品类来定义,除了有最家喻户晓的首饰和摆件,还有B2B专业部门,以仿水晶切割工艺为诸多品牌提供增值服务。
其次,具体到市场表现来看,品牌要能适应消费者行为的改变和市场发展趋势,主动推行自己内部调整来满足市场需求。
以中国本土市场为例,品牌进驻中国数十载,与中国市场一起发展,见证了消费者购买力、消费习惯的形成,一边适应一边创新。
近几年,施华洛世奇针对中国市场对品牌进行了长远规划,致力于通过渠道、产品和沟通内容的打造,使品牌更年轻化;加强数字化零售能力,打造全渠道购物场景;针对中国消费者喜好,设计专属产品等。
比如今年年初推出的红天鹅系列,将品牌经典的天鹅以中国红元素进行重塑,结合春节的节日氛围,打造了爆款话题。
21CBR:中国市场的特性是怎样的?
孙珏:今年,我们针对全球六个市场做了消费者画像调研,得到的结论与我们的市场观察非常接近。
第一,消费者年轻化。相较全球,中国市场整体消费者年轻了10岁左右,这些年轻群体既有购买力又是时尚潮流引领者。
第二,偏好全渠道体验。在数字化领域方面,中国的发展领先全球,几乎所有年龄段的消费者都有使用社交媒体和电商平台的习惯,购买行为覆盖全渠道场景。他们在网上或者线下进行查询或者购买,消费者使用数字平台的频率远高于全球其他市场。
这对于时尚首饰品牌而言,亦是非常重要的市场趋势。品牌必须与消费者形成全渠道的触点,并在此基础上设法与消费者直接沟通,以此更好地了解用户购买喜好、提高转化率、优化会员体系。
2018年,施华洛世奇针对中国市场制定了五年计划,其中打造全渠道场景是至关重要的一步。
若干年前,施华洛世奇在天猫、京东开设了自营旗舰店。它们现在是品牌在中国占比最大的线上渠道。如今品牌的市场营销更侧重数字化,包括数字媒体与社交网络的投放,如小红书、抖音、微信朋友圈等,也已经建立起了CRM会员体系,为消费者提供更便捷的全渠道服务。
第三,注重产品设计。中国消费者除了在意品牌价值,对产品设计也有要求。从很多消费行为中可以观察到,现在年轻消费者,更加注重产品本身的设计性、话题性、可戴性以及性价比。
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施华洛世奇2019情人节LIFELONG BOW系列
2019年的情人节,品牌推出了一款项链“LIFELONG BOW”,在小红书上被消费者取名“仙女链”,受到热捧并造成了全球断货。这种基于UGC内容形成的传播方式和传统品牌传播不同,品牌不再单向对消费者进行输出,而是与消费者形成了一对一平等的沟通关系。
同时,数字媒体发达,消费者获得信息的渠道丰富多样,他们会形成个人对时尚的见解,品牌如何与消费者成为朋友,依赖于更实时、碎片化、全渠道的沟通方式,这对品牌来说是很大的挑战。
内部如何数据化导向,如何触及目标群体,如何保持线上线下销售渠道与价格体系的统一性,对企业而言都是新课题。
21CBR:2019年11月,施华洛世奇迎来了上海和北京两家新概念门店,能否介绍具体“新”在何处?
孙珏:品牌传统店铺对消费者来说,多数像是一个高冷有距离感的朋友,未来的零售形象则会是一个平易近人的朋友。在新零售店铺形象设计中,我们有两大突破和变化:
第一,店铺陈列更开放,色调更温暖。打破传统立柜店铺,新店铺中有全新空间,叫做“Sparkle Bar”,这个区域的梳妆镜可供消费者试戴和体验。这里不仅有首饰,还陈列有家居摆件。店内也有数码装置,方便拍照上传社交媒体,同时也能看到在社交媒体上发布的品牌信息。
cacd3bffa12747a3b3e55fa5d21a3563.jpg 施华洛世奇北京新概念店Crystal Studio
门店色彩上,从冷色系变成了以粉红色、蓝色为主色调的暖色系。今年9月,全球首家新概念门店在米兰开业。从首月表现看,消费者在店铺内停留时间明显变长,并且更乐于尝试、探索不同造型。
第二,增加了电子化展示方式。新概念店里,我们基本摈弃了传统灯箱的宣传方式,由LED 屏播放当季主推产品,与全球市场同步最新的品牌和产品信息。
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费者在Crystal Studio内体验数字化互动装置
实际上,零售的本质不会改变,不论全渠道还是新零售,就是让消费者在任何时间、地点用喜欢的方式买到产品。
就首饰品类而言,线下体验不可或缺,在门店能得到的服务、试戴和搭配,是线上不能得到的,我们不能偏颇任何一个渠道的发展。新概念店的布局,实则就是回到生意和消费行为的本质。
21CBR:近年品牌在中国二三线城市的布局速度在加快,未来计划是什么?
孙珏:我们坚信中国市场的消费力和整体成长空间是不可限量的,首饰行业会是继吃穿住行之后,消费升级的新一轮风口,这种追求美丽带动的消费趋势,正从一线城市向下沉城市辐射、发展。所以,在中国市场,我们会持续进行店铺覆盖与渠道渗透。
截至2019年底,品牌将会有接近400家门店,包括直营和经销商门店。2019年至2022年三年间,我们会加强维护和提升品牌现有城市的市场占有率,并进一步覆盖空白市场,在衡量城市的GDP、购买力和收入水平后,选择合适的时间点进入新城市。
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施华洛世奇上海新概念店Crystal Studio
截止目前,施华洛世奇门店已覆盖中国100多座城市,三年后,计划再新增30座城市,拓展中国新兴城市市场。施华洛世奇的产品品类,还是需要消费者线下触达与直观感受,体验零售环境与服务。
同时,分销一定是质量与数量并行,并将会由内外部数据出发,评估、判断和决定进入市场的时间点与分销规划。






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